[Doctor's Column] Dark Circles Are Not Just One Type: The Real Reason Dark Circles Won't Go Away with Whitening

"I am always told that I look tired because of my dark circles." Many people say they have tried both whitening creams and concealers, but their condition remains the same. There is only one reason. This is because dark circles are not a single disease, but rather three conditions with different causes are referred to by the single name 'dark circles'. If the cause is different, the solution must also be different.

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▶ Q. Why don't dark circles go away with whitening?

・ Dermatologists classify dark circles into three types ( Dermatologic Surgery, 2009 ). Melanin that has actually accumulated Pigmented type Muscles and blood vessels visible beneath the thin skin Vascular type , as the area under the eyes sinks and shadows form Structural type no see.

・ A study classifying 100 Korean women ( Skin Research and Technology, 2016 In ), the vascular type accounted for 35%, and the mixed type, which is a mixture of pigment and blood vessels, accounted for 54%. That is For 9 out of 10 people, the 'problem of visible blood vessels' is involved. I was doing that. This is the reason why whitening treatments targeting only pigmentation are not effective.

・ Simple identification method: Gently pull the skin under your eyes downward. If the color remains the same, it is the pigmented type; if it spreads out to a bluer hue, it is the vascular type; and if it fades when you tilt your head up to receive light, it is closer to the structural type (shadow).

❙ Image: Produced by Maypure Doctor Column

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▶ Q. Why is it that only the area under my eyes looks see-through?

・This is because it is the thinnest skin on the face. A study that measured skin thickness in different facial regions using high-frequency ultrasound ( 2025 The skin of the eyelids is identified as the thinnest layer on the entire face. Muscles and blood vessels that are hidden in the cheeks or forehead are exposed directly under the eyes.

・It gets thinner as you get older. Dermal collagen steadily decreases with age ( British Journal of Dermatology, 1975 The skin under the eyes, which is already thin, becomes transparent first. Most people over the age of 40 who say they "suddenly developed dark circles" fall into this category.

・It sinks down to the support below. If the mid-facial fat compartment moves downward and the deep fat below the cheekbones decreases ( Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, 2012 ), a boundary line (lid-cheek junction) forms between the under-eye area and the cheek, and shadows are added.

Therefore, pigmented types require addressing 'color,' vascular types 'skin thickness,' and structural types 'hollows and shadows.' It is difficult to resolve all three at once with a single procedure.

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▶ Q. Which procedure is suitable for each type? Our Yeonsinnae branch's criteria

At Maypure Clinic Yeonsinnae Branch, we first identify the type of dark circles during the consultation, and then provide guidance based on the criteria below.

① Pigmented type → Meladyce + Melanocream
・ If melanin has actually accumulated, whitening is the appropriate approach. However, since the stratum corneum under the eyes is thin and sensitive to irritation, relying solely on topical whitening products has its limitations, Meladuse, a whitening skin booster that delivers whitening ingredients directly into the skin. I recommend this first.
・ You may use a prescription whitening ointment (Melanocrem) for home care on a limited basis. However, there is stinging right under the eyes. Only in the area more than 1cm away from the edge of the lower eyelid Correct, Only to pigments shallowly accumulated in the epidermis You can expect positive results. However, since it is not effective on pigments located deep within the dermis, the decision regarding application and the duration will be determined during the consultation.
・ If you do not stop rubbing your eyes and block UV rays, pigmentation will accumulate again. For pigmented types, correcting habits is half the battle; treatment is half the battle.

② Vascular type → Celdiem or Rituo (ECM booster)
・ The problem of visible blood vessels is not to eliminate the blood vessels, but Make the skin on top thicker to make it less see-through That is the solution.
・ Celle Diem and Rituo are skin boosters that directly replenish the components constituting the dermis (extracellular matrix, ECM, such as collagen and elastin) to the skin. Unlike typical dewy skin that merely adds moisture, they fill the dermal structure itself, making them suitable for the thin, translucent skin under the eyes.
At our Yeonsinnae branch, we recommend Rituo for 3 sessions at 4-week intervals as a standard, while for Celle Diem, we determine the number of sessions based on your skin condition during the consultation.

③ Structural type (shadow) → Hilowave ○, Olidia △, Under-eye filler △
・ When hollowness and furrows are the cause, I receive the question "Then can't you just fill them in with fillers?" the most. The under-eye area is part of the face The most tricky area for fillers When a mass of cross-linked hyaluronic acid is placed just beneath the thinnest layer of skin, light scatters The bluish Tyndall effect This occurs, or due to the characteristics of the area with slow lymphatic circulation Chronic edema long after the procedure It may look swollen ( 2025 Review of Periorbital Filler Complications ).
· so Hilo Wave is the top priority. We recommend it. As an injectable approved by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety containing both high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, unlike fillers that 'fill' sunken areas, it spreads widely across the entire thinned layer of the skin. Boosting the thickness and elasticity of the skin itself That is the purpose. It has been experimentally confirmed that high molecular weight + low molecular weight HA complex increases the production of type 1 and type 3 collagen and elastin in fibroblasts ( PLoS ONE, 2016 ), improvements in skin elasticity and hydration were reported in a 16-week clinical trial ( Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2016 It was introduced at the end of August this year.
・Ollydia is not a "circle" but a "triangle". It is a procedure that induces collagen production to gradually restore volume, covering the sunken cheeks below the cheekbones and Below the lid-cheek junction Up to that point, it is useful for reducing shadows by setting up supports. However, It is not injected into the tear trough itself. This is because the skin is so thin that nodules can be felt or see-through.
・Apply under-eye filler last, and only a small amount. Replenish only in the deep furrows that remain after the above process. When the skin is thickened, the burden of transparency and swelling is reduced even with the same amount.

In practice, the mixed type is the most common, so two or more treatments are combined in a specific order. If sagging around the eyes is also present, Eye Shurink (HIFU specifically for the eye area) may be added as an auxiliary treatment. Dr. Sim Dong-gyu determines the order and combination based on the chart records after confirming the type during the consultation.

❙ Image: Produced by Maypure Doctor Column

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▶ Q. Do you have any daily habits that worsen dark circles?

・Rubbing eyes. If you frequently rub your eyes due to allergies or dryness, the friction causes inflammation and pigmentation, exacerbating the pigmentation. If your eyes are itchy, seek ophthalmological or allergy treatment first rather than rubbing them.

・Neglecting nasal congestion. If venous blood flow around the nose becomes stagnant due to rhinitis, the area under the eyes appears bluer. If dark circles deepen during the change of seasons, managing rhinitis helps.

・Sleeping face down · Salty food late at night. If morning swelling recurs under the eyes, the skin stretches, causing the shadows to deepen.

・UV protection. The thinner the skin under the eyes, the faster collagen is lost. Be sure to apply sunglasses and sunscreen thoroughly to the under-eye area as well.

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▶ Summary

・ Dark circles are a mixture of three types: pigmented, vascular, and structural. This is why whitening alone is not enough.
・ Pigmentary type: Meladuse + Melanocream, Vascular type: Celle Diem · Rituo, Structural type: Hilowave ○ / Olidia △ / Filler △.
・ The effects and duration of the results may vary depending on individual skin condition.

Chief Director Sim Dong-gyu of Maypure Clinic Yeonsinnae Branch
· Graduated from Korea University College of Medicine
· Master of Medicine, Korea University School of Medicine
· Full member of the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery
· Regular member of the Korean Society for the Study of Obesity
· Regular member of the Korean Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery and Laser Medicine
· Allegan Juvederm Expert Member

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📍 Maypure Clinic Yeonsinnae Branch
3rd Floor, Metro Tower, Directly Connected to Yeonsinnae Station (856 Tongil-ro, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul)
☎ 02-389-9980
Clinic Hours: Weekdays 10:30–20:30 / Saturdays 10:00–17:00 / Closed on Sundays and Public Holidays

Skin concerns vary from person to person. After a consultation, we will guide you to the most suitable treatment based on your records.

※ This post is intended to provide general information about the procedure, and the effects and recovery period may vary depending on individual skin conditions.
※ Please be sure to consult thoroughly with medical staff before the procedure. Swelling, bruising, and redness may temporarily occur after the procedure.

References
1. Roh MR, Chung KY. Infraorbital dark circles: definition, causes, and treatment options. Dermatol Surg. 2009;35(8):1163-71.
2. Park KY, et al. Classification by causes of dark circles and appropriate evaluation method of dark circles. Skin Res Technol. 2016;22(3):276-83.
3. Korzekwa S, et al. Quantitative analysis of the human face skin thickness: a high-frequency ultrasound study. 2025.
4. Shuster S, et al. The influence of age and sex on skin thickness, skin collagen and density. Br J Dermatol. 1975;93(6):639-43.
5. Gierloff M, et al. Aging changes of the midfacial fat compartments: a computed tomographic study. Plast Reconstr Surg. 2012;129(1):263-73.
6. Baytaroğlu HN, et al. Complications of periorbital cosmetic hyaluronic acid filler injections. 2025.
7. Stellavato A, et al. Hyaluronan hybrid cooperative complexes as a novel frontier for cellular bioprocesses re-activation. PLoS ONE. 2016;11(10):e0163510.
8. Sparavigna A, Tenconi B. Efficacy and tolerance of an injectable medical device containing stable hybrid cooperative complexes of high- and low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2016;9:297-305.

#Yeonsinnae Dermatology #Yeonsinnae Dark Circles #Yeonsinnae Under-eyes #Yeonsinnae Hilo Wave #Yeonsinnae Skin Booster #Eunpyeong-gu Dermatology #Gupabal Dermatology

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